Lisa Reinisch

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Spot the difference: life in the United Arab Emirates vs life in Austria

May 25, 2020 by Lisa Reinisch in Abu Dhabi, food, lists, local culture, photography, UAE, Austria

I lived in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) for ten years, from 2009 to 2019. Since moving back to my native Austria, 18 months ago, I’ve gone through my personal version of reverse culture shock – slowly but surely wrapping my head around the many contrasts between how life was and the way things are now.

I have no regrets about leaving but wouldn’t say it was easy either. Looking back, it’s clear that even though so much has changed, ultimately, the essence of “home” shines through. Here are eleven image comparisons that sum up the many ways my old reality (pictured left) diverges from the new (on the right).

ONE

One thing the desert taught me is that you never pass by a vehicle that’s broken down or stuck. Driving on sand can be tricky and once a car is truly bogged down, you need a few helping hands (and proper recovery equipment) to get out. Every trip in…

One thing the desert taught me is that you never pass by a vehicle that’s broken down or stuck. Driving on sand can be tricky and once a car is truly bogged down, you need a few helping hands (and proper recovery equipment) to get out. Every trip into the dunes would involve at least one vehicle recovery and the experience I gained during those hours digging, winching and towing out the cars of friends and strangers alike continues to serve me well, especially during the winter months here in Austria. Last winter, after a decade of improving my desert driving skills, I had to teach myself how to drive on snow again. But there’s no competition: if given the choice, I’d much rather get stuck in sand!

TWO

Everywhere I’ve lived, I’ve always grown my own vegetables. Although it would have been possible to keep doing so in the UAE, I gave it up after one season as I wasn’t okay with the amount of water my DIY irrigation system was consuming. Once, on a …

Everywhere I’ve lived, I’ve always grown my own vegetables. Although it would have been possible to keep doing so in the UAE, I gave it up after one season as I wasn’t okay with the amount of water my DIY irrigation system was consuming. Once, on a trip to the Liwa oasis, we made friends with an Emirati farmer who gave us the vegetables pictured above (left) as a gift. I will never forget this generous, hospitable gesture; so representative of the culture there. Here in Austria, where fruit and vegetables sprout from the soil without much watering, gifts of freshly harvested seasonal produce are also common among family and friends – probably one of my favourite things about living in the country side.

THREE

Winter weekends - then and now. As much as I enjoy a day on the slopes, nothing quite compares to exploring the UAE desert during the cooler months. I left the UAE in November, meaning I went from spending days at the beach or in the dunes to the ex…

Winter weekends - then and now. As much as I enjoy a day on the slopes, nothing quite compares to exploring the UAE desert during the cooler months. I left the UAE in November, meaning I went from spending days at the beach or in the dunes to the exact opposite: late autumn in Austria is a seriously cold, dark and wet affair. I remember getting annoyed by the fact that socks were suddenly a daily requirement and being constantly taken by surprise by mid-afternoon sunsets. The UAE wins winter, hands down.

FOUR

Last summer, I attended my first global climate strike in Graz, Austria (above right). After ten years in a country where political activism is not possible, it felt liberating and even a little transgressive to march the streets holding a banner an…

Last summer, I attended my first global climate strike in Graz, Austria (above right). After ten years in a country where political activism is not possible, it felt liberating and even a little transgressive to march the streets holding a banner and chanting slogans. During my time in the UAE, I witnessed sustainability rapidly climb up the national political agenda. When I worked for the UAE chapter of the WWF, I remember how thrilling it was to be part of an organisation that brought environmental campaigns into public spaces, such as Yas Mall (top left), Abu Dhabi, in 2018.

FIVE

Firmly on the list of things I don’t miss about life in the UAE: summer. The heat, the humidity, the absolute dependence on air-conditioning, the sweat soaked pain of spending even minutes out of doors. For us, one of the best (and only) escapes fro…

Firmly on the list of things I don’t miss about life in the UAE: summer. The heat, the humidity, the absolute dependence on air-conditioning, the sweat soaked pain of spending even minutes out of doors. For us, one of the best (and only) escapes from it all used to be to get out on the water, early in the morning, before the heat kicked in. Above (left) you can see a view of the Abu Dhabi skyline, as seen from a friend’s boat. By contrast, an escape from what people here in Austria call "summer heat” looks very different: last year, we spent a few days by an alpine lake (top right) where, even at the height of summer, the water remains too chilly for more than a quick dip.

SIX

Certain things can be diametrically opposed yet equally mesmerising.

Certain things can be diametrically opposed yet equally mesmerising.

SEVEN

I will always miss seeing camels on a quasi-daily basis - on the way to work, at tourist spots, at events, on the beach. Cows are great, don’t get me wrong, but they have nothing on the loose-lipped, wonky-legged, evolution-hacking bravado of the ca…

I will always miss seeing camels on a quasi-daily basis - on the way to work, at tourist spots, at events, on the beach. Cows are great, don’t get me wrong, but they have nothing on the loose-lipped, wonky-legged, evolution-hacking bravado of the camel.

EIGHT

When I still lived in Abu Dhabi, I used to get fed up with eating byriani (left) all the time and wish I could have “Brettljausn” (right) instead. Now, of course, it’s the other way around. While I was able to find Austrian products in the cosmopoli…

When I still lived in Abu Dhabi, I used to get fed up with eating byriani (left) all the time and wish I could have “Brettljausn” (right) instead. Now, of course, it’s the other way around. While I was able to find Austrian products in the cosmopolitan supermarkets of the UAE, Austria doesn’t have a lot of Middle Eastern restaurants or stores – none at all in the rural area I live in now. I’d love to cook my own byriani here but so far I haven’t been able to get my hands on the spices or even the right kind of rice. Oh, how I miss Abu Dhabi’s hole-in-the-wall places where you can get a little roadside feast for next to nothing.

NINE

I miss the ocean a lot. Who wouldn’t? I have always loved water sports but land-locked, alpine Austria isn’t a great place for it – believe me, I tried. It turns out that once you’ve gotten used to the warm, turquoise waters of the UAE, frigid lakes…

I miss the ocean a lot. Who wouldn’t? I have always loved water sports but land-locked, alpine Austria isn’t a great place for it – believe me, I tried. It turns out that once you’ve gotten used to the warm, turquoise waters of the UAE, frigid lakes and rivers just don’t cut the mustard. Time to embrace other activities. Options here include climbing, yoga, cycling, hiking and, of course, the whole spectrum of winter sports, which are a firm part of the Austrian way of life. Still, one day, I’d love to live by the sea again.

TEN

Nothing much to say here. Just couldn’t resist.

Nothing much to say here. Just couldn’t resist.

ELEVEN

This post was going to be a list of ten and I hesitated before including this eleventh comparison, maybe out of habit. In the end, I decided I just couldn’t leave out one of the biggest contrasts between life in the UAE and life in Austria: in the E…

This post was going to be a list of ten and I hesitated before including this eleventh comparison, maybe out of habit. In the end, I decided I just couldn’t leave out one of the biggest contrasts between life in the UAE and life in Austria: in the Emirates, labour is cheap. So, eventually, you get used to other people doing stuff for you - from bagging up your groceries to cleaning your house to packing up your belongings when it’s time to move elsewhere. In the UAE a team of ten showed up on my doorstep and took care of everything; in Austria, it was four guys and they couldn’t believe how thoroughly everything was packaged.

Looking back, I’ll always feel a pang of guilt about this aspect of life in the UAE. High levels of convenience come with a backdrop of terrible employment practices and human rights abuses. As a white European, I benefited from all kinds of unfair privileges during my time there. I knew all this. And still, I stayed.

Overall, my decade in the UAE changed me on many levels. For one thing, it made me feel like somewhat of a hypocrite (see previous paragraph). But my time in the Emirates also showed me the true meaning of the words “tolerance” and “multicultural”. It helped me to see Europe, “the West” and the rest of the world from a new vantage point. It allowed me to see a little bit beyond tired cultural tropes and divisive hyperbole. And yes, it taught me to enjoy and value my rights and duties as a member of a democratic society, more than ever before.

Sometimes, I miss my old life. The hotchpotch of cultures, the humour and generosity of Emirati culture, the desert, the beaches, the people I was lucky to call my friends and colleagues. Not going to lie here, I do miss having help around the house. And yes, sometimes I even miss the heat.

Of course, Austria is by no means free from inequality, racism and questionable social, cultural and religious norms. Injustice, ignorance and incompetence are global blights. The question is, how common, visible and easy-to-get-away-with are they?

I moved to Abu Dhabi – and stayed there for a decade – because of the opportunities, adventures and lessons that city has to offer. The global financial downturn also had a little to do with it. But one of the key reasons I chose the UAE, and specifically Abu Dhabi, was that – across government, the economy, media and culture – a new generation of leaders had started coming to the fore and seemed keen to bring positive change. In the end, I left for personal reasons, because I wanted my daughter to grow up surrounded by family, greenery and progressive values. For me, my life in the UAE will always remain an eye-opening, heart-expanding, soul-searching experience that made me more perceptive of inequality, more grateful for forward-thinking leadership and less tolerant of intolerance. If I could go back to 2009, I’d probably do it all again.

May 25, 2020 /Lisa Reinisch
Abu Dhabi, UAE, United Arab Emirates, Expat, reverse culture shock, austria, europe, moving, expatriate, life, lifestyle, home, Emirates, desert, mountain, beach, climate strike, biryani
Abu Dhabi, food, lists, local culture, photography, UAE, Austria
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